What Is Sumac? The Spice Used by Persians and Native Americans for Centuries

There was once a deep-red spice used long before lemons became common in kitchens worldwide. The herb in question is Sumac, used to add color, complexity, and tartness to cooked food. Sumach, Sumak, or Sumac, depending on where you come from, is most associated with the cuisines of the Middle East. It is popular in dishes like kebabs, fattoush, and za’atar.

But, surprisingly, not many people know that Native American communities across North America also used varieties of sumac for food, medicine, and drinks for centuries. I learned this fact very recently, and it piqued my curiosity. I am pleasantly surprised to find that it’s also native to the US.

This is a fascinating story of parallel food traditions across continents. Evidence that ancient cultures often independently discovered similar culinary ideas.

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What Exactly Is Sumac?

The name derives from the Aramaic word “summaq,” meaning dark red. The Assyrians, Babylonians, and Romans used crushed berries for flavoring, preservation, and medicinal purposes.

Sumac comes from the dried berries of shrubs in the Rhus coriaria genus in the Middle East and the Staghorn sumac in North America. Once harvested, the berries are dried and ground into a coarse crimson powder with a tangy, citrus-like flavor.

Its taste is often compared to lemon, but earthier and more floral. Before citrus fruits spread widely through trade routes, sumac was one of the ancient world’s most important souring agents.

The spice has been used for thousands of years throughout the Mediterranean and Indigenous North America. 

Ancient Middle East’s Favorite Spice

Archaeologists and food historians agree that sumac was used in the ancient Middle East long before the rise of modern nation-states. Persians, Assyrians, and other civilizations valued it both for flavor and preservation.

In Persian cooking, sumac is a core ingredient for grilled meats. Even today, Koobideh kebabs are often showered with sumac just before serving. The spice is rich in malic, citric, and tartaric acids. This acidity helps cut through the richness of lamb or chicken.

No fattoush, kebab, or za’atar is complete without sumac, which has become essential. One little sprinkle adds a burst of flavor!

The spice’s sharpness makes it essential in hot climates where acidic ingredients help balance heavy foods.

Sumac Is Very Native American!

I was surprised to learn that the Indigenous peoples in North America also used sumac long before European colonization.

Species of sumac, like staghorn and smooth sumac, grow wild throughout the continent, especially:

Many Native American communities harvested the fuzzy red berry clusters in late summer and early autumn.

Native American nations, such as the Cherokee and Southwestern tribes, soaked the fuzzy red berries in water to produce a tart, refreshing beverage called “Sumac Lemonade”.

The Dakota and Ojibwe peoples have used sumac to soothe sore throats, colds, and various stomach ailments for many generations. The berries are naturally rich in Vitamin C, therefore excellent immune boosters.

Sumac played a major role in Native American rituals, with the inner bark and leaves often used in ceremonial smoking mixtures. Different parts of the plant were also boiled to create rich red and yellow dyes for textiles and baskets.

How to Use Sumac in Your Kitchen

• Use in your cocktails, to rim glass edges for margaritas, to infuse simple syrups, or to shake into contemporary botanical mocktails.
• I use sumac in just about every dry rub I make for chicken and fish. It adds that lovely soft lemony taste and cuts through rich fats.
• For my vegetables and dips, I generously dust sumac over warm hummus, blend it into labneh, or toss it with roasted root vegetables and olive oil.
• You can also add to your desserts, like anything, with dark chocolate, dusted over shortbread, or incorporated into fruit tarts to balance sweetness.

Chicken Koobideh with Sumac Recipe

Persian historians claim that Jafar Shari and Etemad al-Saltaneh introduced Koobideh to Iran during the reign of Naser al-Din Shah Qajar. During his travels through Russia and the Caucasus, the Shah became fond of Caucasian chelo-kebab, originally made from chunks of veal or mutton on skewers. He asked his royal chefs to adapt the recipe to better suit Iranian tastes, so it was created with local ingredients like saffron and grated onion into the Koobideh we know today

A lighter variation of the classic Persian kebab, chicken Koobideh is juicy, aromatic, and perfect with grilled vegetables, rice, or flatbread.

Ingredients:

For the Kebabs

• 2 pounds ground dark meat chicken
• 1 medium onion
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 teaspoon turmeric
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 ½ teaspoons salt
• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 teaspoon ground sumac

For Serving

• More sumac
• Grilled tomatoes
• Saffron rice or flatbread (pictured is dill rice)
• Sliced onions with parsley and lemon

Instructions:

1. Grate the onion and squeeze out excess liquid using a towel or cheesecloth. This keeps the kebabs from falling apart.
2. In a large bowl, combine the ground chicken, onion, garlic, spices, parsley, olive oil, and sumac.
3. Mix thoroughly for several minutes until the mixture becomes sticky and cohesive.
4. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
5. Shape the mixture onto skewers or form into long oval patties.
6. Grill over medium-high heat for about 4–5 minutes per side until lightly charred and fully cooked.
7. Sprinkle generously with additional sumac before serving.

Serving Tip

Traditionally, Koobideh is served with grilled tomatoes, herbs, yogurt, and warm flatbread. The final dusting of sumac is what gives the dish its signature brightness and unmistakable Persian flavor.

Why Sumac Is Today’s Big Trend

Today, Sumac is enjoying a revival. Its clean lemony acidity and dry fruitiness make it ideal for experimentation in the kitchen. This unique flavor allows chefs to elevate dishes without introducing extra liquid, making it a highly adaptable ingredient for modern culinary techniques.

Native and Indigenous chefs are working to decolonize menus. North American species like staghorn sumac are back in mainstream fine dining.

The surging global popularity of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines, made popular by chefs like Yotam Ottolenghi, has made sumac a pantry staple for home cooks.

For health-conscious people, Sumac acts as an excellent, low-sodium flavor enhancer. The natural tartness tricks the palate and reduces the need for excess salt in savory dishes.

The deep, crimson-burgundy hue provides an instant visual contrast, making it a favorite “finishing dust” for Instagram and TikTok food creators.

This is an incredible parallel: two cultures separated by oceans both recognize the same plant as a source of acidity, preservation, and flavor.

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Selected Sources and Further Reading

• The Missouri Botanical Garden – Rhus coriaria (Sumac).
• Native American Food Sovereignty Alliance – Staghorn Sumac Profile
• Serious Eats — What Is Sumac?

Note to my readers:
My research draws on travel experiences, books, and, sometimes, AI tools. I love using my own photos whenever possible, but occasionally I include stock or AI-generated images to help illustrate the story.